I have been searching for the right phone case for such a long time now, without any success of finding one, when I realized: I could make one myself, with a simple phone case DIY project!
The problem is that I had some very important requirements:
– It needs to hold at least 2 cards (my bank card and my public transport pass)
– The front of the case needs to stick out higher than the front of the phone (this way, when I drop my phone, the chances are that the glass won’t break very easily)
– It has to look nice :))
– Oh, and I don’t want it to be one of those booklet phone cases, because I had one of those and ended up keeping it folded open all of the time anyway.
The reason for my stubborn search for a phone case that holds at least two cards is simple: when I travel here in Holland, you can check in and out of the train and bus by holding your travel card in front of a sensor. When you have it attached to your phone, it makes it so much easier to “check-in” and to “check-out”. And since carrying around cash has become a rarity here as well, it makes sense to keep my bank card attached to my phone, leaving my wallet at home and more room in my purse!
And, oh my did I find the perfect solution: restyling a plain transparent silicone phone case, with the help of faux leather and a simple back stitch!
Yes, it really is that easy! Who knew that you can combine these two materials with just a simple sewing technique?!
I made this case last month, because I wanted to try it out first and see if the stitching would hold up, and it definitely did! Not only does my iphone case still look exactly the same, it also let’s me “check-in” to the public transportation by simply holding the phone case (with the card still in the sleeve) against the sensor. This is such a time saving and convenient feature! (every Dutch person will know what I am talking about;)
Are you ready to make your version of this:
Card Holder Phone Case DIY
Transparent Silicone Phone Case
Pencil or Chalk
CLothes Pins (or anything else to keep the leather in place during the embroidery steps)
– Place the fabric, right side down on a flat surface.
– Place your phone case on top of the fabric.
– Measure the side length of the phone case. Subtract a few millimeters from the measurements and draw a line in the measured size onto the back of the fabric with your pencil or chalk.
– Measure the bottom of the phone case. Subtract a few millimeters from the measurements and draw a line in the measured size onto the back of the fabric, connecting to the other drawn line.
– Repeat drawing these lines to create a rectangular shape as shown in the photo above.
– Cut the rectangular shape out of the fabric with your scissors.
– Place the cut-out shape (right side down) on a flat surface.
– Place your phone case on top in the centre.
– Follow the shape of the rounded corners of the phone case with your pencil onto the back of the fabric.
– Cut the rounded shape out of the fabric with your scissors.
– Fold the fabric horizontally down the middle. (wrong sides towards each other)
– Place the bottom corners on top of each other and match the rounded shape on the other bottom corner. Cut the shape out of the fabric.
– Fold the fabric vertically down the middle. (wrong sides towards each other)
– Place the bottom-right and top-right corners on top of each other and match the rounded shape. Cut the shape out of the fabric.
– Place another large piece of fabric on a flat surface (right side down)
– Place your leather shape from the precious steps on top.
– Trace and cut out the shape twice.
– You should have three identical pieces of fabric.
– Place one of the pieces (right side up) on top of the back of the silicone phone case.
– Cut out the corner that covers your camera, as shown in the photo above.
The piece with your camera cut-out will be the back piece. The other two pieces will hold your cards.
– Cut both of them in the desired height. One slightly shorter than the other.
– Take your largest piece (the one with the camera cut out) and place it right side down.
– Take your ruler and measure approx. 3mm from the edge. Mark it with a dot.
– Draw tiny dots all along the outer edge, keeping them approx. 3mm from the outer edge and approx. 6mm inbetween each dot.*
* The dots will be your embroidery stitch points. And will be visible through the inside of the silicone cover.
– Place your three (faux) leather pieces on top of each other (right sides up).
– Place them on top of the back of your silicone phone cover.
– Keep them in place with clothes pins (or something similar that won’t damage the leather).
– Flip the cover, showing the inside of the phone case.
– You will now see the dots made in step 8 through the transparent case.
– Thread your needle with the embroidery thread and tie a small knot at the end of the thread, make sure that there is still a bit of thread at the other side of the knot (you will need this for the final step)
– Insert the needle through the wrong side of the leather ending in a marked dot (do not sew through the silicone yet!)
– Pull your thread all the way through until the knot at the end of the tread reaches the leather.
– Let the string at the end of the knot stick out.
– Start attaching the three pieces of leather onto the silicone case, with a simple backstitch. Use your marked dots as reference points and push the needle through the case and leather each time.
– Once you have stitched a large part of the case, you can remove the pins and continue attaching the pieces together.
– When you have stitched all of the marked dots and reached the beginning, you can use the thread that is sticking out (step 11) and tie a knot to secure the thread.
– Cut the excess thread and use your needle to push it in between the silicone case and leather.
Are you living in a small apartment, studio, (dorm) room, tiny home or any place that just isn’t suitable for you ánd your stuff? Welcome to the club!
Because I have been part of the club for a while now, I felt that it was time to let you in on my secrets and discoveries that I have collected over the years when it comes to living clutter free and most of all spatial in a small studio apartment.
My last blogpost was a home tour video of my studio, including loads of pictures to give you a feel of what my home looks like (you can find the video tour at the end of this post). Today I want to share the most practical features of my home that really helped my studio to look better and make my day-to-day life more practical and organised.
And when I say practical I don’t mean the obvious store-things-under-your-bed solution, because we can all think of that one. It’s the things that you only realised you needed after living in a small home for a while, like where to keep your laundry basket (Tip nr.4) or where to put your make up on when your bathroom is to small (Tip nr. 6). These, plus many more solutions to practical problems are all included in this post, with a few extra bonus tips at the end.
Are your ready for 10+ extra tips on how to make the most of your small apartment?
Scroll down to the end of this post for the home tour video!
10 Tips to Maximize Your Space
1. TALL OPEN WARDROBE
The first decision that I made when I moved into my studio apartment was building this open ‘closet’. Because it is a small space, I didn’t want a big part of it to be one big block of furniture. And wow did it work!
Not only does a wardrobe like this provide you with a large amount of storage it also makes the room look larger, because you can see the space inside and behind the closet.
I made the wardrobe go all the way up to the ceiling, maximizing the storage space and using every usable cm available. Because the height gives the wardrobe more shelve space, you can use the top for storing things like craft supplies and winter garments: hats, gloves, etc.
The construction was inspired by the famous Ikea Elvarli wardrobe systems. But I made it in a budget version using three shelving units* that you can buy at the hardware store + a few pipes for the hanging parts (also available at the hardware store). I think that the total costs were about €100,-
It was a tricky decission to have an open wardrobe in a small studio, because you can see everything that’s inside, so keeping things tidy is really a gamechanger. My solutions for keeping the wardrobe clutter free are:
Hang all of you clothes (no folding, just simply hanging everything up. This really saves up time and space!)
Get a small chest of drawers for your undergarments. You can place the small cabinet underneath one of the hanging spaces.
Use baskets or storage bins for the top shelves. This way you can categorize your items (winter clothes, sheets, etc.) and it looks very tidy.
Place your shoes on the bottom shelves. keeping the floor clutter free, which also makes the room look bigger.
Dining, working, crafting, game-night, there are so many reasons why I really wanted to have a table in my studio apartment. But for Netflix watching millennials like myself, I do spend most of my time on my couch. So I needed a table that had a large surface, but that wasn’t too big since I don’t want a giant table in the middle of my ‘living room’ when watching a movie. Yes, problem!
But there is a very easy solution: an extendable table. And luckily they are getting more and more popular, meaning that you can get a pretty and affordable one very easily nowadays.
I made this table with my dad, but we based the design on an Ikea version that we spotted when we were there.
Here are a few extra tips:
What to do with your extra chairs when the table is in it’s smallest position?
1. Get folding chairs and hide them behind your wardrobe or under your bed, etc.
2. Keep a chair next or behind your bed for decoration and keeping your clothes of the floor when you are not in a cleaning-keeping-the-open-wardrobe-tidy-mood.
3. get a side table that also functions as a seat (see tip number 3)
Get a table that extends on two sides. This gives even more surface space and you can also choose to extend only one part when you need it, keeping the table in place and simply ‘folding’ it open.
Place a rug under your table. Not only is it very friendly foor your feet, is also creates the illusion of a separate area, even when your table is less than a meter away from your bed or sofa.
3. MULTI-FUNCTIONAL SIDE TABLE
I find that it’s best to keep the middle section of a living space in a small apartment to be as open as possible. This way you can do yoga, unfold your dining table (see previous tip) and do many more things without having to re-organize all of your furniture. With that said, I am not a big fan of having all of my furniture against the wall. My way of keeping things playful is a very functional sidetable.
Well, actually it’s a stool that has many functions:
You can use it as en extra seat when the dining table is unfolded.
Place a tray* on top and it functions as a side table, suitable for you glasses, flowers, candles, etc.
Surface space. On movie nights, I place my external screen ( I don’t have a tv) on top and place it in front of my couch.
Footstool. well, this one just speaks for itself;)
*Extra tip: I purchased a tray and placed it on top in case me or my cats bump against the table. This tray has a picture bottom, which makes it extra personal and decorative.
When it comes to living in a studio, it’s all about the details and small things. As I mentioned before, it’s not hard to think of storing things under your bed, it’s the things that you realize you need only after you moved into a small apartment.
Like a laundry basket for instance. The simple action of moving your wet clothes out of the washing machine to your balcony, garden or indoor laundry rack. It’s such a simple item, yet it’s not an easy thing to store when your apartment is tiny and your bathroom only has room for a shower and toilet.
My solution: a wicker basket with three purposes:
1. Storing my sofa and picknick blanket
2. Picnic basket
3. Laundry basket
When I do my laundry, I simply take the sofa blanket out, temporarily place it on the couch and use the basket for my laundry.
5. JEWELRY STORAGE – MIRROR
Unless you are one of the lucky ones that lives in a small (studio) apartment and still has a giant bathroom, you probably faced the same problem that I did: where to get ready in the morning and store anything that can’t get wet?
Most small bathrooms get very damp after taking a shower and I prefer to put my make-up on and do my hair somewhere else.
I build two things to help me with this, One is this secret storage mirror.
It is the perfect hiding and storage space for jewelry, nail polish and other small trinkets. I made this version myself after seeing this perfect tutorial on A Beautiful Mess.
6. STORAGE DRAWERS
The second solutions for storing my morning routine items are these shelf drawers, which I bought at Ikea. I just love these! They store all of my make-up and hair supplies and they also function as regular shelves.
The mirror and shelf are both in my kitchen and I love that when they are closed, the kitchen just looks like a regular kitchen, not half a kitchen/half beauty station.
These storage solutions don’t need to be in your kitchen, if the layout of your house doesn’t allow it. You can also easily put them up somewhere else in your home and even put a chair or stool (see tip nr 3) underneath and really transform your wall into a beauty/grooming area.
7. SHOWER CURTAIN
Ok, this one might not sound like a big deal; you have a shower, the chances are that you have a shower curtain. Well, not when your bathroom has a shower cabin. And my shower cabin is very small. Which makes sense, because the bathroom is small. But after having to use some yoga moves just to shave my legs, it was time to make a few changes.
I live in a rental, so I took the doors out of the cabinet, by simply unscrewing them and put them in storage (make sure that they are dry, because they can easily get moldy!) I attached the shower curtain rings to the railing of the shower cabinet that used to hold the doors. And that was it!
Not only does it give more physical space, it also adds color and a personal touch to the room.
8. ROOM DIVIDER WITH STORAGE SPACE
My favorite practical tip for living in a studio apartment is to create a multi functional room-divider. These two open units are just perfect when it comes to dividing the space and keeping an open vibe.
I still had these two from a previous home, buy really any kind of open storage unit would work to get this effect.
To create an extra ‘divider’ I added sheer white curtains that go from the ceiling all the way down to the floor. They cover one part of the open wardrobe and the backside of the room dividers, creating a type of doorway into the sleeping area.
The best part about these two types of room dividers is that they still let enough light through, they don’t take up a chunk of space and because of their light colors, go well with the entire room.
What I also love about the added curtains, is that the view from the bed isn’t the back of the open shelving units, but the pretty sheer curtains. It sometimes feels a bit like there is a window at the footside of the bed:)
9. FUNCTIONAL FURNITURE
The main thought of decorating a studio apartment? No item can enter without having more than one function. As you may have noticed, that really is the theme for these apartment tips and tricks.
From a laundry/picnic basket, a side table/stool, room divider/shelving units and even a sofa that does more than keep you legs up at the end of the day.
The biggest project of the LRS blog is this sofa. I transformed it into this floral beauty, but the basis of the sofa was really the reason why I bought it. It truly is the best purchase that I have made for this apartment. It holds almost all of my books and even looks great when you place it in the centre of a room, because the storage space goes all around.
These are my findings when it comes to finding a sofa for your small apartment:
A chaise lounge or sofa without any armrests makes the sofa look a lot smaller. I am not sure why, but it really makes the sofa less daunting in a small space.
Try to find a sofa with storage space, wether it’s open like mine or a sofa with storage in it’s seats.
Small apartment but love company? Get a sofa that also functions as a bed. My sofa is actually also suitable to sleep on.
10. HANGING PLANTERS
Small apartment also means that there is less surface space. And even though this shouldn’t mean that you can’t have any pictures on your windowsill or candles anywhere, it does mean that the space is valuable.
I am a big fan of plants and after already having a lot of them scattered around my studio, I really wanted to have more. Which is how I came up with these hanging planters. You can make them yourself like I did: Hanging planter tutorial. Or buy them from your favourite store.
The best part is that it doesn’t take up any surface space and it adds a 3 dimensional touch to the living area.
Where to hang your hanging planters:
In a corner part of your home to fill the space, without bumping your head against them
In your bathroom, pretty and practical!
In front of your window, this is perfect to add privacy to your home, and it still let’s light in.
As a room divider. Remember how I put up sheer curtains behind my room divider shelving units? You can do the same with plants!
You can basically hang them anywhere and I promise that it will give a homey and colourful addition to your room(s).
HOME TOUR VIDEO
EXTRA TIPS, TRICKS AND IDEAS
Hang your damp clothes in a seperate part of the open wardrobe. (This means that you don’t need a drying rack in the middle of your living space)
How to make your room look bigger? Easy: keep the floor visible. This means wardrobes on legs, sofa’s that have space underneath, etc.
Big artworks – A small space doesn’t mean that everything has to be scaled down. Instead of having a lot of tiny objects and artworks, it’s better to have a few larger pieces to decorate your surfaces and walls.
Area rugs – create different ‘area’s’ in your home with small (circular rugs)
Window decal – Instead of placing things on your windowsill and taking up space, you can use a window decal to decorate your home. Like this one that looks like flowers in a vase.
Thank you so much for stopping by! I hope that these tips, trick and ideas are helpful when t comes to your home. If you have any questions please let me know in the comments section below!
Welcome to my home! I have been looking forward to sharing my home with you for a while now and the day has finally come where I get to share my tiny studio apartment house tour!
Not only is this blogpost filled with a ton of photos, I also made a home tour video!!
Scroll down to see the video
Here is a tiny backstory: 2,5 Years ago, I got rid of almost all of my stuff and moved from Utrecht The Netherlands to Berlin Germany (you can find the full blogpost with more info here). One year ago, I decided to move back and found this small studio apartment in Utrecht. Because I didn’t have any furniture (besides my bed that was in storage) I had to decorate the studio from scratch: perfect!It gave me the opportunity to come up with budget friendly ways to cleverly use the small space and really think about how to live in a tiny home in the best way possible.
And since I found so much inspiration online when transforming the empty studio, I wanted to give back to the online community and share myhome with you guys!
Here is some practical information:
– I live in Utrecht, The Netherlands (google maps) – My home is approx. 30 square meters – I have a small courtyard/garden (approx. 15 square meters) – I share my home with 2 cats
I have to be honest with you: this is the tiniest home that I have ever had. Don’t get me wrong, I love the location and the fact that I don’t have to share it with anyone, but I did have to get used to living in a one room apartment. Having that said, I love a challenge and decorating a small space was truly a joy!
Having moved from abroad, my budget was pretty low, which means that I had to get creative. The only thing that I did invest money in was the kitchen floor. I put in this white Ikea laminate. It made the space look so much brighter and cleaner and I am very happy that I did!
The greatest thing about the apartment is that it has a small courtyard type garden. It really adds to making the living space seem larger and it allows the cats to go outside. Which was perfect, because I don’t think that we would have survived to live together on such small quarters;)
Are your ready for way to many pics for such a small studio + a special home tour video?
Scroll down for the full tour!
STUDIO APARTMENT | House Tour
You can few the video above for the full tour. Here is the tour in pictures.
There will be a separate blogpost including 10 tips on how to decorate your small apartment. So keep your eye out on the blog for some extra tips!
I got very lucky with the layout of the apartment. Because it has an L-shape floorplan, it allowed to me to create a sleeping area that really feels like a ‘separate’ space. To separate the bed from the main space, I added sheer curtains and two open cabinets which functions as a room divider.
Because of all of my clothes and craft supplies, I wanted to have a big closet which would function as my main storage space unit. I build this open closet, which holds most of my stuff and kept it open, because it makes the space look more spacious.
Separated by the double room divider, you will find the living room area. It has a folding table, cabinet, sofa, two carpets and reading nook.
The sofa was the best purchase: because it is a lounge model, it makes the room look larger. I added a floral fabric to give it a personal touch. You can few the full project here.
The kitchen is pretty large for such a small studio. It has lots of storage space and I added this drawer shelve for more storage. The disco ball is probably my favourite item in the kitchen:)
The bathroom is really small and is the only thing that I am not very happy with in my studio apartment. The shower had doors in it, but that made showering pretty difficult because of the limited moving space. So I took the doors out (put them in storage) and added this shower curtain. This really made it so much better and it also looks great!
Thank you so much for stopping by! I hope that you enjoyed the home tour and maybe it gave you some inspiration for your home. If you have any questions please let me know in the comments section below!
Budget proof, stylish and ready in an hour: this hanging planter DIY project has it all! And the best part: it involves upcycling an item that everyone will have in their home: a plain sifter!
Yes, that’s right! These gold beauties are the cheapest sifters that I could find and I transformed them into these gold hanging planters. And so can you!
Why it’s a game changer:
– Each planter cost about €5,00 to make
– Don’t like gold? Use your favourite colour!
– With outdoor spray paint, you can also hang them in your garden.
– Add green into your home without using any valuable space
Why this works best for my home is because I have a tiny studio and only one wall that I often use as a photo wall.(the wall behind my sofa) Since I can’t put any wallpaper on the wall or hang anything on there, because it has to stay clean and white, it really felt very dull and plain compared to the rest of my living space.
These hanging planters were the perfect solution! They don’t take up any valuable space in my tiny home and I can easily take them down when I have to use the entire wall for a photoshoot.
The best part is that it really makes the room become more alive, I think that it works so well because they are hanging in different heights.
Are your ready to make your own hanging sifter planters? Scroll down for the full project!
– Take your sifter, wash and dry it to prepare for the next step.*
*To help attach the spray paint, you can lightly sand the smooth surfaces of the sifter.
STEP 2 – Gold
– Place your sifter upside down on a surface that can get dirty.
– Lightly spray your paint onto the sifter. Repeat spaying light layers of paint onto the surface of the sifter, letting the paint dry in between.
STEP 3 – Hoops
– Measure the top rim of the sifter and divide this by three. These will be your hanging spots.
– Attach a small hoop through the holes in the sifter. One on each of the three point.
STEP 4 – Chains
– Measure the height of the ceiling and decide the placement of your hanging planter.
– Cut three pieces of your chain in the desired length with your pliers.
STEP 5 – Attaching the chain
– Attach one chain to one hoop ring and close the ring with your pliers.
– Repeat this for all three hoops and chains.
STEP 6 – Big Hoop
– Attach all three chain endings to the big hoop with your pliers.
STEP 7 – Plastic
– Cut your plastic bag in a large circle with your scissors.
– With the chains on the outside of the sifter, place your plastic into the sifter.
– Keep the ends of the plastic sticking out for now.
– Place your plant into the plastic bag in the sifter.
– Add some extra soil until the entire sifter is filled.
– Roll the edges of the plastic towards the plant until it creates a small edge.
– Water the plants.
– Attach the hook into your ceiling (My ceiling has wooden beams, if yours doesn’t you can use other ways to attach the planter: This website offers several ideas)
What I love most about this project
You can play with several sifters in different heights.
Mixing different plants in one sifter would also look awesome!
This hanging planter would also be great to hang in front of your window and create a little bit of privacy instead of using curtains.
Yes, the day has finally come where it actually isn’t hard or way expensive to give your living room a giant DIY update! And what is the biggest statement piece in most living rooms: The Sofa!
It has been bugging me for years that whenever I moved to a new place I could basically make anything I needed by myself on a budget. However, making a sofa from scratch is still a pretty tricky and often expensive thing to do (especially if you have a specific design in mind, like I do). And re-upholstering still frightens me, especially because I am so afraid of doing it wrong and having ruined expensive fabric in the process.
Which is why I did a happy dance when I spotted this Ekebol couch at Ikea. It has removable cushions! So goodbye heavy tools and hello sewing machine!
Why it’s a game changer:
It’s perfect for my tiny studio (there is a home-tour coming up on the blog soon!)
The cushions are removable!
It has shelves all around
It could be used as a guest bed
The shape makes it look less big in a tiny home
And I can go on like this for a while (I am not sponsored btw, I just really love it!)
The only downside to the sofa is also my biggest frustration when it comes to the current home-decor trends in stores: ‘safe’ fabrics. Prints are making a small comeback since the seventies, but for some reason sofa fabrics are still mostly available in boring beige and grey. There are exceptions, but they usually are way over my budget.
The first thing that I did after buying the sofa was contacting my all-time favourite company: Spoonflower. I remembered that they offer velvet fabric and that was perfect for my sofa DIY project! They quickly got on board and made me the happiest DIY blogger in the world!
I once again used the Rijksmuseum archive to create a collage out of their online art collection. The entire collection is rights free and you can download all of the artwork in high ress. quality. This time, I wanted to go for giant flowers and embraced soft pink as a background.
Always being on a budget, I want to mention that I was very surprised by how affordable printing your own fabric is nowadays. I am collaborating with Spoonflower, but this statement truly comes from being a classical Dutch (aka cheapo) person. As stated before, I have been looking for the perfect sofa for years and the total costs of the sofa and the fabric is about the same amount of a buying a regular (beige;)) decent priced couch. (I think that the total costs were around €600,-)
Are your ready to make your own custom Ikea hack sofa? Scroll down for the full project!
RESTYLE DIY | Custom Sofa Fabric Design
– Measuring Tape
– Sewing Machine
– Needle & Thread
– Fabric (You can design your own fabric!!)
Before we start: Designing your own fabric. There are multiple ways to design fabric: – Repeating print- You design one square of artwork and have this square repeated across the entire fabric. – ‘Life Size’ print – This is what I made. It means that you will have to design the fabric in it’s ‘true size’. So if your sofa cushion is 100cm by 100cm, the design file has to be made in 100cm by 100cm. I love this way of designing, because you can calculate which part of the print goes where. It does however require a fast computer, because in te end you will have to export an extremely large file and upload it to order the custom fabric.
Copying an existing sewing pattern:
– The reason why I bought this sofa, is because it has removable cushions. This tutorial is made with that in mind. If you want to re-upholster your sofa, you can follow the fabric design steps in this project. For the upholstery I suggest that you read the ‘Do It Yourself Divas’ blogpost on this subject. Which has an excellent tutorial on how to reupholster your sofa.
STEP 1 – Measuring
– Remove* all of the sofa covers and flip them inside out.
– Write down all of the cushions dimensions by placing your tape measure on all of the seams.
*My sofa has removable covers with a zipper, making it easy to remove the covers. If your sofa cushions don’t have any zippers, carefully open up one seam and flip the cover inside out.
STEP 2 – Digital outline
– Once you have measured all of the cushions seams, use those numbers to create small technical drawings* for the outlines of the cushions.
* I advice to make these drawings digitally for the next few steps. You can use programs like Photoshop, Paint or even Word to create them.
STEP 3 – Digital outline
– Make an outline drawing for each individual cushion.
– If you are designing your own ‘life sized’ fabric print like I did, you will want to create a file with all of the actual dimensions. Making it easier to design and order the fabric later on.
– If you are designing a repeating pattern, or are using a store-bought fabric, you will only need the dimensions to calculate the amount of fabric that you will need.
STEP 4 – Fabric
– Design your own fabric! (or buy one, or repurpose old materials!)
– This is the third DIY project where I am designing my own fabric and it truly is an addiction! For my design, I used the Rijksmuseum database and turned floral artworks into a textile collage.
STEP 5 – Custom Fabric
– Before your buy or design your fabric, you will need to know the amount needed.
– The digital designs that you made in steps 2 and 3, will make this very easy! Simply place the cushion outlines in one file, side by side. And you can calculate how much yards/cm of fabric you will need. (don’t forget to add seam allowance!)
– If you are designing your own ‘life size’ fabric print, this step is also perfect to finalise the design and let’s you choose which part of the print goes where.
For this project, I collaborated with the amazing Spoonflower and they printed my design on the richest softest velvet fabric! The flowers, the pink and the velvet go together so well, I just couldn’t stop touching it when it was delivered at my home :)
– Use your measurements made in the previous steps and cut all of the pieces of fabric needed for each cushion.
– Place your fabric -wrong side out- around each cushion.
– Use your pins to create the cushions outline. The fabric should be pretty tight around the cushions.
– Leave one side open.
– Remove the pinned fabric from the cushion, through the open side.
– Sew all of the pinned lines.
– Flip the sewn fabric -right side out-.
– Place the cushion in the new cushion cover.
– Fold the edges of the opening inwards and keep it in place with a few pins.
– Use your needle and thread to close to the opening with an invisible stitch.
What I love most about this sofa DIY project
You can make your biggest designing project, your homes statement piece
Add extra cushions on the sofa for a fun mix and match of prints
No need to get a new sofa in a few years, just design your new favourite project and sew new cushion covers!
Let’s take those DIY skills to the next level and use them to create your very own table lamp project, from scratch! And yes, you read that right: this table lamp is made almost completely from candle wax!
The idea behind this project came from a gift that my parents gave me: an awesome looking flamingo bulb from Bitten-Design that deserved more than a plain Ikea lamp. I had done a few concrete mold projects that would have been great for this, but I was also looking for a new innovative version that didn’t require special supplies and scary advanced pottery skills and basically just something ‘new’.
Which let me to wax. And no, not some kind of special sculpture wax, (which would also be great for a future advanced-project!) but plain old candle wax.
The great thing about using candles, is that they come in a million colors. Which means that you can really match your home’s color palette or the bulb that you are using like me. You can go for:
black, white and grey
An ombre effect
And I can go on like this for a while, because the options really are endless.
Not to mention the shape of your lamp, because as a mold, I used a simple juice carton.
I think that it is safe to say that I had a great time making this project and I can’t wait to see what the result of your lamp will be!
Are your ready to make your own table lamp? Scroll down for the full project!
DIY | Candle Wax Table Lamp
– Carton in the shape of your choice
– Lamp Wire ( I used this cord set from Ikea)
– Power Plug
– Candles to melt
– Baking Paper
– Hobby Knife
– Round Cardboard Tube ( I used the leftover tube from an aluminum roll. The important thing is to make sure that the lamp fitting fits inside the tube)
– Glue Gun
– Bulb (LED, because we don’t want our special wax lamp to melt;))
– Empty and clean your carton. Wipe the inside dry.
– Use your hobby knife to remove the top* of the carton.
* This doesn’t have to be in the exact size of your lamp design. Just as long as you don’t cut it too short.
– Decide how tall you want your lamp to be.
– Mark the length on your cardboard tube and use your hobby knife to cut the tube.
– Take a piece of cardboard or thick paper and place it on your baking paper.
– Roll the two forward, creating a tube-like shape. (make sure that the opening is big enough for your cord to go through)
– Use some tape to keep the rolled up scroll in place.
– Mark a small line approx. 2cm from the bottom of your cardboard tube with a pencil.
– Draw a circle in the same size as your rolled up baking paper scroll above the 2cm line.
– Use your hobby knife to cut the hole out of the tube.
– Make a matching hole in the bottom of your carton, using the exact same placement specifications.
– Pull your cord though the top opening of the cardboard tube and out of the hole that we made in step 5.
– Keep pulling the cord, until the socket slides into the tube.
– Use your glue gun to attach the lamp’s socket to the top of the tube.
– Cut a small piece of baking paper and wrap it around the socket*.
– Use tape or your glue gun to keep the baking paper in place.
* This will protect the socket from the hot candle wax.
– Take the cord coming out of the tube and pull it through the carton and out of the opening on the bottom side of the carton.
– Hold the tube in place and see of everything fits correctly. If you need to shorten the tube, level the bottom etc. this will be the step to do that.
– Use your glue gun to glue the bottom of the cardboard tube. Quickly, before the glue dries, stick the tube to the bottom of the carton.
– Slide the cord coming out of the carton through the baking paper tube.
– Press the baking paper tube through the hole in the carton as well as the hole in the cardboard tube.
– Place your pan on the stove and melt the candles.
– Once the candles have melted, remove the wicks.
– Let the wax cool off for a while, until it has the thickness of yoghurt*.
* If the wax is too hot, there is a chance of the middle part of the mold slightly sinking in.
– Pour the wax into the mold. Try to keep the entire carton as level as possible.
– If you want to create multiple layers like I did, let the wax completely cool off, before you pour the next color/layer.
– After the wax has set and doesn’t feel warm anymore, you can carefully remove the carton.
– Attach your power plug according to the instructions on the label*.
* If your label doesn’t come with instructions, you can use this website on how to attach your power plug.
– Find the perfect bulb for your table lamp and check to see if everything is working properly.
And that’s it! You will now have your very own handmade candle wax table lamp!
What I love most about this project
You can mix and match with candle wax colors! Use 1,2, 3, 4, 5 different colors!
Mix & Match with the candle wax lines. If you lean the carton mold against a wall, letting it slightly tilt. You can create some fun geometric lines.
For this project, I used a tall square carton. But you can create a completely different looking lamp when you use a short triangle shaped mold.
Get ready for this 15 minute no sew wire headband project! Yes, you read that right: this headband tutorial is not only super fast to make, it also doesn’t involve a sewing machine, hurray!
How did I come up with this project you ask? Well here is: A short history of my winter frustrations, resulting in a fun headband project
Ever since the winter has arrived in The Netherlands, I have been going crazy because of all the static electricity in my house. I am not able to wear 80% of my dresses because they will stick to my legs, my cats are giving off electric vibes when walking near me and my bangs have a new found crush on my forehead… And after buying a humidifier, using hairspray on my tights and following every single how-to-remove-static tutorial there is, I have given up and decided to play along.
I haven’t found a solution for wearing long dresses without them sticking to my legs yet (any advice anyone?) But my hair problems are officially over, now that I have made this wire headband!
As of today I can keep the sticky hairs out of my face and still have a fashionable ( and retro! ) hairdo.
Besides it being perfect for keeping your bangs and hairs out of your face, this headband is also very suitable for any season: just imagine you sitting on the beach in your pretty bathing suit, sporting a headband that is made out of your favourite piece of fabric.
Because before I forget: this project is one of those opportunities to clean out your closet or fabric stack: You can cut up that skirt with the stain that will never go out, or use the piece of fabric that has been too small to actually make anything with it.
I used a leftover piece of lining fabric that I designed for my robe coat project. Which means that I can also match my coat now, so fun!
Are your ready to make your own wire headband? Scroll down for the full project!
DIY | No-Sew Wire Headband
– Long piece of fabric
– Textile Glue
– Long Wire
– Measuring Tape or Ruler
– Cut your fabric in the size: 90cm x 10cm.
– Iron the fabric to create a smooth canvas.
– Place your fabric wrong side up.
– Use your iron to fold the outer left and right edge. Fold the fabric approx. 2cm.
– Use your iron to fold the outer top and bottom edge. Fold the fabric approx. 2cm.
– Starting on one side, measure the vertical middle of the fabric with the top and bottom folded inwards.
– Fold the outer edges inwards to the vertical middel, creating a triangle shape.
– Use your iron to keep the fold in place.
– Repeat this for the other side.
– Fold the entire piece of fabric horizontally double.
– Use your iron to make a crisp fold.
– Take your wire and place it on top of your fabric.
– Cut the wire in the size of the fabrics widest edge + 2 cm
– Fold one side of the wire 1cm inwards*.
– Fold the other side of the wire 1cm inwards.
* This will prevent the wire from piercing through the fabric
– Glue the edges of the fabric together with your textile glue*, leaving one side open.
* Try out your glue on a piece of scrap fabric first to see if it might bleed through.
– Place the wire inside the headband through the small space you left open in step 7.
– Apply a small amount of textile glue to close the entire headband.
– Let the glue dry according to the instruction on the tube.
And thats it! You will now have your very own no-sew headband!
What I love most about this project
The inserted wire let’s the headband stay in place. (I am one of those people that can’t wear regular headbands, because they will slide off within minutes)
It’s practically a FREE piece of accessory. I had every single one of the supplies laying around at home!
Use the same fabric for a skirt or top and you will have a very matching outfit.
Make a bunch of these with your fabric scraps and wear them according to season: velvet for winter, linen for summer, etc.
I have been wanting to make my own set of postcards for a while now, but I really wanted to use the process as part of an art DIY project to share how incredibly fun it is to see something that you have made in print!
So, let’s start by collecting all of the scrap paper that you have laying around (this can be from your kids craft collection, old newspapers, etc.) and instead of bringing them to the recycling bin, turn them into your very own art card project!
The idea behind the card design is to play with a real collage made out of paper (or other materials if you feel like trying something new) and use the layered effect to create a subtle 3d look. Later on, you photograph or scan the result and print it onto cardstock.
What I absolutely LOVE about this process is that you actually get to play around with different shapes and materials and try things that you might not think of when you are designing something on the computer.
Are you excited yet?! Let’s start making that card!
ART DIY | Handmade Collage Greeting Card
This project is a part of the LRS DIY / BUY itcollection. Make it yourself, or buy it today!
– Any kind of scrap paper that you like (I used kids craft paper and payed special attention to the color combination for the card design)
– Scissors or hobby knife
– Scanner or camera
– Printer (or you can order your cards online, like I did)
– I made 2 cards and used 2 different designing techniques. For the first card, I designed the image on my laptop in Adobe Photoshop. I played around with simple squares, circles and other regular shapes until they formed a portrait (the braided hair is actually a bunch of circles)
– You can of course design anything that you like, and use any computer software that you are comfortable with.
– For the second card design, I traced a photo of myself onto a piece of paper (keeping in mind to use the right proportions to that of a regular A6 sized card). I only traced the outer edges of my hair, the jacket, etc.
– After tracing the image, I used different colours to colour the big empty spaces.
– What I loved about this, is that I already got to experiment with colors and got to see what did and didn’t work.
– I you have designed your image on the computer, you can print it onto a regular piece of paper. It doesn’t have to be printed in the exact card size, just as long as the proportions are similar to that of a regular card (I made my cards in A6 format)
– Wether you have printed your design or painted it in a piece of paper, place it on a flat surface and start by cutting away the bigger shapes.
– After you have have traced a few bigger shapes with your scissors or knife, stop this step and follow the instructions in step 4.
– Place one of the cut out pieces on a piece of your chosen scrappaper and trace the shape.
– Cut the traces shape out of the paper, this is your first piece of the collage!
– Repeat step 3 & 4 until you have traced and ‘copied’ all of the shapes from your design.
– You can trace one piece unto different kinds of paper and see which one works best. Play around, trust me it’s fun!
– Take Another piece of paper and cut out a hole that has the proportions of a regular card (size A6, A5, etc.)
– Place it over the design. This step really helped me to decide how zoomed in or out I wanted the design to be. Here you can think of how many space you would like all around your design and if something might still be missing in the design.
Digitising your design
– There are many ways to digitise your design:
Take a photo of the design and print it onto cardstock with your own printer.
Scan the image with a scanner and print it onto cardstock with your own printer.
Take a photo of the design and order the cards online (or at a local printshop).
Scan the image with a scanner and order the cards online (or at a local printshop).
– I photographed the two designs and had them printed onto 330gr. cardstock. I also made a small design for the back of the card.
And that is it! You will now have your very own art cards!
Extra art DIY ideas
– Both of my cards have been printed on both sides. The front has a smooth glossy surface and the back card design is matt and writable. But there are many more possibilities, whichever works best for your design!
– You can also turn the back of the card into a postcard and design lines and a stamp area from scrappaper!
SHOP Lana Red Studio
Are you interested in the art DIY cards that I made? You are in luck! Because they are available in the LRS Etsy shop:
Are you ready for a fun ‘Before and After’ post?! Today I will be sharing my budget friendly dresser restyle project!
Upcycling is one of my favourite activities! And when I moved into my current studio, I had very little money to spend on decorating the small space and also didn’t want to invest in a new piece of furniture, since my next home might be too far away to bring it with me (yes, the luxurious struggles of a nomadic lifestyle!)
Luckily I found this old dresser for free and decided to give it a new life with just a few easy tweaks that completely changed it entire look.
My main wish for this dresser was to lift it to create space underneath it, since my studio is pretty small and one of the ‘tricks’ for living in a small space is to keep the floor surface visible.
And I wanted to paint it into a subtle color, since all of my walls are white, and I wanted to turn it into a practical statement piece.
Upcycling old pieces of furniture really doesn’t have to cost much. The total costs for restyling this dresser were only: €19,00!!
Dresser: free! (ask your friends, family, eBay for unused pieces of furniture)
Wooden legs: I found these wooden table legs at a thrift store for 1 euro each and they matched perfectly!
Handles: The leather handles are made out of a thrifted leather jacket that only cost 2 euro. The carriage bolts and matching nuts cost 8 euros at the local hardware store.
Paint: Try Dollar/Euro stores! They often sell left over name brand paint cans. (And for the Dutchies among us: I bought the chalk paint at Action for only 5 euros.)
I was in a very pastel phase, when restyling this dresser. But as I try to do in all of my tutorials: you can adjust the project to your own style! Paint each drawer in a different color, choose felt instead of leather for the handles, put wheels under the dresser, etc. The possibilities are endless!
Are your ready to give your old dresser a new look? Scroll down for the full project!
DIY | How to Restyle a Plain Dresser
– Old dresser
– 4 Table legs
– Paint ( I used chalk paint for a matte effect)
– Primer – that is suitable for the surface of your dresser
– Paint roller and brushes
– Pieces of Leather
– Carriage bolts and matching nuts
– Fabric Hole Puncher
– Piece of wood for the bottom of the dresser
– Drill to attach the legs to the bottom of the drawer
– Remove the original handles of the chest of drawers.
– Take all of the drawers out of the dresser.
– Lightly sand the entire dresser including the front of the drawers.
– Clean the surfaces with a damp cloth after sanding.
– With a soft roller, apply the primer to the outside of the dresser and drawers.
– Let the paint dry.
– After the primer has dried, lightly sand the painted surfaces.
– Clean the surfaces with a soft cloth before the next step.
– Apply* your choice of paint to the outside of the dresser and drawers.
– let the paint dry, and if necessary, apply an extra layer.
* Use a roller or brush that is suitable for the type of paint that you are using
* I used a chalk paint in the color: mint
Preparing the leather handles
– Decide the width and length of the leather* handles.
– Double the length measurements (you will be folding the leather handle later on) and draw the measurements on a piece of paper or cardboard.
– Cut the measurements out of the cardboard.
– Make a hole on one side of the cardboard for the bolt.
* Are you also always on a budget? No worries! I made these leather handles out of a thrifted leather jacket to keep the costs to a minimum. And you can also always opt for animal friendly faux-leather pieces.
– Place your cardboard mold on a piece of leather and cut along the edges.
– Mark the hole placement and fold the leather piece double.
– Use your hole puncher (or something similar) and punch a hole trough both layers of the fabric.
– Repeat step 7 & 8 for as many handles as you need.
– Prepare the handles by inserting the bolts trough both of the fabric layers.
– Press the bolt through the existing hole in the drawer, with the leather piece on the outside of the drawer.
– Attach the nut to the back of the bolt inside the drawer.
Attaching the legs
Attaching the legs to the bottom of the dresser shouldn’t be too hard, depending on the type of legs and the bottom of the cupboard.
– If the dresser has an open bottom, take a piece of wood (you can have it cut in the size of the dresser at the hardware store) and paint the edges in the color of paint as the rest of the dresser.
– Turn the dresser upside down, and use small screws to attach the piece of wood to the bottom.
– How to attach the legs to the new bottom depends on the type. This website shows three different ways to attach new legs to your dresser.
And that is it! You will now have a brand new looking dresser!
How about a fun and original way to wrap your smaller sized Christmas gifts this year?! This ‘Oh Deer; Christmas wrapping paper is available as a free downloadable print and allows you to bring your gifting skills to a whole new level!
I always wanted to design my own wrapping paper, but never realised that you can just wrap presents with regular printer paper. Because, even though the paper is thicker and sturdier than regular wrapping paper, it still looks pretty good to me when you decorate it with a custom print!
It is so easy! You print your paper, wrap your gift and give the deer a red nose for a playful effect!
PRINTABLE DIY | Oh Deer Christmas Wrapping Paper
– Felt Poms (or something similar)
– Paper in the colour of your choosing
– Collect the gift that you want to wrap* and measure the size.
– Depending on the size of the gift you can:
• Download an A4 sized template with a large deer image in the middle.
• Download the deer image on it’s own and use a program like Word, Pages or Adobe Photoshop to scale the image in the correct size.
*If you have a printer that is suitable for A4 sized paper like mine, you will be able to wrap many small gifts like: jewellery boxes, pocket books, etc.
– Place the coloured paper in the printer and print your image.
– Wrap the gift with your paper, making sure that the deer image is on top.
– With a dot of glue attach a small pom on top of the nose of the deer.
You can go so many ways with this project!
– Print the deer on all kinds of different paper, from regular white paper, to coloured, thin, photo, you name it!
– Rudolph has a red nose, or maybe he is sporing a blue one this year?
– Download the deer image and place multiple deers on one piece of paper!